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v7.2 (A.I. Watch & Collection Reviews)
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Model Name:
Reference:
De Bethune DB28
DB28TIS8C6PN/S
Country
Switzerland
Current Rating
3083
Rating Implied Value ($)
$
99585
Expected Rating Based on Price
3104
Rating Alpha
-21
Price ($)
$
105000
Date Added:
Sep 19, 2024
# Times Rated
3
Watch Description
https://www.thelimitededition.co.uk/de-bethune-db28-db28tis8c6pn-s-review/
An exceptional piece of innovative, functional design with the technical sophistication and immaculate finishing of traditional haute horlogerie, the DB28 by independent watchmaking company De Bethune is a truly spectacular wristwatch which redefines the parameters of styling with its elaborate articulated lugs and pared back minimalistic time display.
Formerly winner of the highest accolade in watchmaking, the cherished GPHG Aiguille D’Or as outright winner in 2011, the futuristic DB28 is a universally recognised icon of contemporary independent watchmaking, and while the original has spawned several variants down the years, with its beautiful, rotating three dimensional moon phase orb, to many collectors, this superb piece, which is not so much a variant but an evolution on the original holds a special place.
Measuring 42.6mm across and only 9.3mm tall, the DB28 is a piece which looks bigger than its dimensions but wears smaller, thanks to the signature De Bethune case construction, which features a round inner case that is suspended on an articulated chassis with pivot points at the three and the nine o’clock positions, and the crown nestling between the lug ends at the twelve, allowing the case to ‘float’ on the wrist in unparalleled comfort. Adding to the wear comfort, the watch is manufactured in light but hard-wearing Grade 5 titanium, which has been finished with mirror polishing throughout.
Beneath the sapphire glass the dial is reduced to a polished stainless steel index ring with hour markers and minutes track. This reveals the black movement plate which is decorated with pronounced Côtes de Bethune striping. Skeletonised steel hands indicate the hours and minutes, while beneath a black polished bridge the titanium balance wheel has white gold weights and is energised by a silicon escape wheel. Then, at the six o’clock position, the moon phase is displayed via a sphere of palladium and blued steel, which rotates throughout the lunar cycle and is accurate to an adjustment of just one day every 122 years.
On the underside, a sapphire exhibition caseback reveals the manual winding DB2115V4 movement, and in particular the elegant linear power reserve mechanism which stands out in 5N rose gold against the perlage and polished angles of the black steel calibre. It operates at a frequency of 4hz (28’800 vib/h) and boasts an impressive 144 hours (six days) of power reserve from its twin barrels.
With its unmistakable aesthetics and fluid design which is seamless, contoured and ergonomic, the De Bethune DB28 is a piece of horologic art with immaculate finishing throughout, and a watch with an irresistible presence on the wrist.
42.6
9.3
30
Titanium - Grade 5
Round
Sapphire
Manual
DB2115V4
144
Gray
A.I. WatchMetrics Review:
9.2
# De Bethune DB28 DB28TIS8C6PN/S Review by A.I. WatchMetrics Overall Watch Rating: 9.2/10.0 - Brand (9.5), History & Innovation (9.0), Rarity (9.0), Material (9.5), Movement (9.5), Versatility (8.5), Complications (8.0), Functions (9.0), Dials & Design (9.0), Cohesiveness (9.0) ## Summary The De Bethune DB28 DB28TIS8C6PN/S is a stunning example of avant-garde watchmaking, showcasing a unique design and exceptional craftsmanship. This watch is intended for collectors and enthusiasts who appreciate high-end horology and innovative designs. Its standout features include a distinctive case shape and a remarkable movement that exemplifies the brand's commitment to pushing the boundaries of traditional watchmaking. **Movement Type:** Manual **Power Reserve:** 6 days ## Metric Breakdown with Weightings - **Brand (10% Weight): 9.5/10** Explanation: De Bethune is renowned for its innovative approach and high-quality craftsmanship, making it a prestigious name in the luxury watch market. - **History & Innovation (10% Weight): 9.0/10** Explanation: The brand has a rich history of innovation, particularly in the development of unique movements and materials, setting it apart from traditional watchmakers. - **Rarity (10% Weight): 9.0/10** Explanation: The DB28 is produced in limited quantities, enhancing its exclusivity and desirability among collectors. - **Material (10% Weight): 9.5/10** Explanation: The watch features high-quality materials, including titanium and precious metals, which contribute to its lightweight and luxurious feel. - **Movement (10% Weight): 9.5/10** Explanation: The DB28 is powered by the in-house DB2115 manual-wind movement, known for its precision and innovative design, including a silicon balance spring. - **Versatility (10% Weight): 8.5/10** Explanation: While primarily a dress watch, its unique design allows it to be worn in various settings, from formal events to casual outings. - **Complications (10% Weight): 8.0/10** Explanation: The watch features a unique moon phase complication, which is a signature of De Bethune, adding to its allure. - **Functions (10% Weight): 9.0/10** Explanation: The watch includes a transparent caseback showcasing the movement, enhancing its appeal for enthusiasts who appreciate mechanical artistry. - **Dials & Design (10% Weight): 9.0/10** Explanation: The DB28 features a striking dial with a unique aesthetic, showcasing the brand's avant-garde design philosophy. - **Cohesiveness (10% Weight): 9.0/10** Explanation: The collection reflects a strong thematic coherence, emphasizing innovation and luxury in every piece. ## Conclusion The De Bethune DB28 DB28TIS8C6PN/S is a remarkable timepiece that embodies the spirit of modern watchmaking. Its combination of innovative design, high-quality materials, and exceptional movement makes it a standout choice for discerning collectors. This watch not only serves as a functional timekeeper but also as a piece of art that reflects the wearer's appreciation for horological excellence. --- *A.I. WatchMetrics Review v. 6.20*